1 - A good 5-card or longer suit; AND
2 - At least 9-10+ points. You can overcall 1H with as little as ♠762
♥AQ1087 ♦K96
♣43.
A jump overcall (1H on your right - 2S, 3C or 3D by you) is a weak bid. It shows a long, strong suit with few, if any, tricks outside (usually around 5-9 points) -- a hand like ♠KQ10943 ♥643 ♦Q75 ♣4. (Alternatively, some pairs choose to play a jump overcall as intermediate, showing a 6-card suit and around 12-14 points)
A 1NT overcall shows the same strength as an opening 1NT (a balanced 16-18 points), but with the additional requirement that you have good stoppers (KQx, Q10xx, AQx, etc.) in the suit your opponent opened.
If you're vulnerable (a game on in the rubber), all overcalls tend to promise more strength because the penalties are greater.
Raise partner's major suit if you have fair strength and 3+ card support:
Raise one level with 7-10 pts
Jump-raise with 10-12 points
Bid game with 12+ points
Bid notrump if you have no fit for partner's major, but good stoppers in
the opponent's suit:
1NT with 8-11 points
2NT with 11-13 points
3NT with 13+ points
Bid a new suit if you have no fit for partner's suit, 9+ points and a good 5-card suit of your own.
Pass if you have none of the above.
Partner's jump overcall is a preempt, so you need a fit and quick tricks (aces and kings) to consider a game. If you're weak or if you lack support for partner's suit, you should usually just pass -- don't try to "rescue" him by suggesting other suits. If you do have a fit (3-card support) and a few tricks, you can make a simple raise below game (raising partner's 2S overcall to 3S, or his 3C overcall to 4C). This raise is meant only to further the preempt, and is not invitational to game. Partner should always pass a simple raise.
At least opening-bid strength (12+ points)
Shortness in the suit the opponent opened.
Support for all unbid suits. Your double forces partner to bid, so you
must have at least 3-card length in any suit he will choose. Typical hands
for a takeout double of an opponent's 1C opening would be:
♠KJ76
♥AQ2
♦KJ64
♣65
♠Q104
♥AKJ4
♦K10432
♣8
♠KQ74
♥10864
♦AQJ82
♣Void
If your opponent opens 1NT, all the suits are unbid, so a double is not for takeout. A double of 1NT is for penalty, showing 18+ points Use this double cautiously. Even if you have a lot of high-card points, you should avoid making a penalty double unless you have have a strong suit to lead.
The opponent on your right has also entered the bidding, OR
0-8 points -- Bid your longest suit at the lowest level possible (1H - DBL - Pass - 1S, 2C or 2D).
8+-11 points -- Jump a level in your longest suit to show strength (1H - DBL - Pass - 2S, 3C or 3D).
7-10 points -- Bid 1NT if you have good stoppers in the opponent's suit.
11-12 points -- Jump to 2NT if you have stoppers in the opponent's suit, but do not have length in an unbid major.
Another way to force when you have a strong response (12+ points) is to cuebid the opponent's suit (1D-DBL-Pass-2D). This tells partner that you have game-forcing values, but need more information, usually because you aren't certain of which game to bid. You may need to find stoppers for notrump, or you may be uncertain because you have only 4-card length in unbid suits and fear that partner has only 3 cards for his takeout double. After your cuebid, partner should bid his cheapest 4-card suit, which should help you confirm whether or not you have a 4-4 fit.
The above guidelines can also be followed if your right-hand-opponent bids over your partner's double. The main difference is that you are not forced to bid if you have 0-8 points If you do bid (1D-DBL-1H-1S, for example), your bid is called a freebid. It shows length in your suit and some values (usually around 6 to 9 playing points), but it does not force partner to bid.
♠Q9 ♥J983
♦Q754 ♣632
Bid 1H. You must respond, and with two suits of equal length, you should choose
the major.
♠J42
♥1092
♦642
♣Q1073
Bid 1H. You have club stoppers, but your hand is too weak to bid
notrump. Your only alternative is a 3-card suit, so try your cheapest major
(and pray). Do not panic and pass!
♠K2
♥QJ93
♦A986
♣632
Bid 2H. The jump tells partner that you have fair values (8+ to 11
points).
If partner has extra strength, this may encourage him to bid a game.
♠982
♥KJ ♦K1072 ♣Q1082
Bid 1NT. You could also bid 1D, but a 1NT bid is more descriptive (it
shows your club stopper) and more encouraging, since it promises at least 7-10
points
♠104
♥943
♦KJ1065
♣AQ5
Bid 2NT. You have the strength to invite game, but 5D will be a
difficult contract to make. With your balanced pattern and good club stoppers,
suggest a notrump game instead. If partner has more than a bare minimum,
he'll raise to 3NT.
♠KQ1084 ♥4
♦AJ106
♣743
Bid 4S. With your strong suits and a singleton, this hand
is worth much more than its 10 high-card points Jump to game to show your
great playing strength.
♠AJ84
♥AQ94
♦Q5
♣J103
Bid 2C. You have enough strength to jump to 4H or 4S, but you
aren't sure you have a 4-4 fit (partner's takeout double promised at least 3
cards in all unbid suits, not necessarily 4 cards). The cuebid of the opponent's
suit forces partner to tell you more. He will usually bid his cheapest 4-card
suit, so if he bids 2H, you'll bid 4H. If he bids 2S (showing 4 spades but only
3 hearts), you'll bid 4S. If he rebids 2NT (showing no 4-card major, but
promising a club stopper), raise to 3NT.
♠A4
♥73
♦Q85 ♣QJ10975
Pass.
This is one of the rare hands where it's right to pass and
defend 1C doubled. Your pass "converts" partner's takeout double to a penalty double.
Copyright © 2002 -- Karen Walker