The simple, non-jump overcall is just about everyone's first introduction to competitive bidding. The rules for suit length and point count are easy for beginners to follow and work well in most situations. With experience, though, we soon find that these decisions aren’t always so simple.
As we develop hand-evaluation skills, we go beyond asking “Is this hand worth a bid?” and begin thinking about what will happen next – how the auction might develop, the effect our bid could have on the play if we defend, the tradeoff between giving information to partner and to the opponents.
In the previous issue, we discussed the modern style for simple suit overcalls, which is fairly aggressive at the 1-level and sound at the 2-level. Those who rely heavily on point-count to make these decisions often end up doing just the opposite. They pass up good opportunities to get in the auction at the 1-level, but take risks with poor suits at higher levels.
High-card strength is just one factor in evaluating a potential overcall. My first convention card listed 1-level overcalls as 10 to 16 points because that’s what my Charles Goren bidding wheel advised (and what a partner said would be a good range “for you”). My card now says 7 to 17, but those numbers can be stretched. Even the convention card doesn't treat this as a firm agreement (the word “usually” is next to the point range).
Big doubles. Whatever point range you put on your card, one point higher is ostensibly a hand that’s too strong for a simple overcall. To describe it, you start with a takeout double, then freely bid your long suit at your next turn. These “big double" auctions can be awkward, especially if the opponents keep bidding, so it’s best to avoid them if possible.
After RHO opens 1D, an overcall rates to be more successful than a takeout double with ♠AJ84 ♥Void ♦QJ ♣AKQ10943 ? A 2C overcall isn’t that much of an underbid if you’ve agreed to play sound 2-level overcalls. It probably won’t end the auction and it allows you to bid spades later without misleading partner about your heart and club length.
Overcalling your suit is sometimes the best strategy even with stronger hands. After RHO opens 1C, three-quarters of voters in a bidding forum chose a 1H overcall with ♠Void ♥KQJ98 ♦KQ5 ♣AKJ76 .
5-4 in the majors. Over RHO’s 1D opener, do you overcall or double with ♠K1064 ♥AQ854 ♦3 ♣KJ9 ? You can make a reasonable argument for either call. For some, the decision may depend partly on suit quality, but experienced players tend to choose the 1H overcall. When your hand isn’t strong enough to show everything, it’s important to get your long major into the auction.
Sandwich seat overcalls. How many times have you heard “I had to bid, partner. I had 13 points!” That belief can lead to disaster in the “sandwich seat” between two bidding opponents. It’s one of the most dangerous positions in a bridge auction, especially when the opponents have bid two suits.
After 1C by LHO – Pass by partner – 1S by RHO, there’s no point in bidding, even not vulnerable, with ♠Q5 ♥A83 ♦K10876 ♣KJ4 . The diamonds aren’t strong enough to suggest a lead and you don’t have the right distribution for a two-suited takeout double.
If the opponents have bid and raised the same suit, you can be more aggressive. In a non-fitting auction, though, you need full values and the “right” suit lengths – a 6-card suit (or very strong 5-carder) for a 2-level overcall or at least 4-4 in the unbid suits for a takeout double.
It’s even more dangerous (and futile) to enter the auction after their 2-over-1 response. The standard advice for bidding in this situation is “Don’t”, with some exceptions for lead-directing overcalls. You’ll rarely if ever want to make a constructive bid here, so any suit bid should show good honor strength and, for safety, extra length.
© 2022 Karen Walker